Sunday, April 12

Light blues

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If someone asked me to pick a garment that would best describe me, this would be it. This is me as a coat (:
I think this is because I've been dreaming of a light grey or pastel coat for over a year now and it has had a long time to form. So when the first hints of spring appeared, I pulled myself together and sat behind the sewing machine before it was too late. This project was all about befriending old enemies.
I wanted to achieve a round shoulder but still maintain the coat looking petite and not as if it had swallowed me (I all ready have a winter coat with that effect which I love as well). So I extended the shoulder line and shortened the sleeve cap.
I was also not sure if I wanted a collar or not. As I’m not on good terms with lapels I used it as an opportunity to try something new.
The main fabric is wool and lining is from white viscose that I decorated with dots using a black textile marker.

Kui keegi paluks mul valida riideeseme, mis mind kõige paremini iseloomustaks, siis valiksin ma just selle - mina manlti kujulisena (:
Ilmselt juhutus seepärast nii, et olen juba pikalt unistanud ühest heledast mantlist. Olen unistanud sinna tikandeid või pikemakarvalist tekstuuri, kuid seekord sai ta küllaltki lihtne. Õlgu tahtsin ümaraid, kuid üldmuljet siiski pisikest (mitte mantlit, kes on tüdruku alla neelanud). Pikendasin lihtsalt pisut õlajoont ja lühendastin varrukakaart.
Ma pole reväärkraedega väga sina peal, olen neid küll konstrueerinud ja õmmelnud, kuid see on alati suuremat süvenemist nõudev ettevõtmine. Kuna mantli tegu tuleb harva ette, olin valmis sellele ka rohkem aega pühendama ning võtsin seda ka kui eksperimenteerimisvõimalust. Kelle muu peal siis veel kui mitte enda!
Lõppkokkuvõttes kujunes see projekt vanade vaenlastega sõbrunemiseks (:

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I remember sewing this type of pockets as part of a school exam long time ago. It was so tricky and needed a lot of patients and precision that I swore I would never sew them again. Well, here I am, sewing these pockets.. I love the clean look and maybe my sewing skills have developed so I thought I'm ready to face them again. Here are some step-by-step photos of the process.

Mäletan, kuidas ma kooliajal nahast välja pugesin neid taskuid õmmeldes. Tegelikult on nende õmblemisel salarelvaks täpsus ja kannatlikkus. Tol ajal vandusin, et kuigi lõpptulemus on ilus ja puhas, käin neist kaarega mööda, kannatlikkusest polnud haisugi ja täpsuski andis soovida. Siin on mõned pildid seest-õmmeldud-peale-pandud taskute õmblemisest.

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Ceramic bears by Helina Nelis (http://www.portselan.eu/) and mittens by Maru (http://kindad.marudesign.eu/).
Portselanist karupoisid Helina Neliselt (http://www.portselan.eu/) ja kindad Marult (http://kindad.marudesign.eu/).

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Saturday, February 28

a weekend in January

To explain to you, my foreign readers, this is a commercial for an Estonian telecommunications company.
This project was one of those hey-you-don’t-know-me-but-I’ve-heard-you-sew-and-we-need-some-things-sewn-in-three-days late night calls and I gladly accepted. We ended up receiving the fabric one and a half days before the deadline but I got to use the time to peacefully draft the pattern of the smock.
The golden teeth are pulled from the vest’s zipper to make it shorter. This is a vest I finished (I sewed some of the pockets and finished it with the lining inside) but later had to sew another one  from different fabric (sadly I didn’t have the chance to take a picture of it). I hope the videos will compensate the lack of photos in this post (:

Ühel jaanuari kuu reede õhtul tuli kõne stiilis sain-sinu-numbri-sealt-ja-meil-oleks-vaja-kolme-päeva-pärast-sellist-ja-sellist-asja-kas-õmbleksid? Muidugi mõista vastasin jaatavalt. Kanga saime kätte küll poolteist päeva enne tähtaega, aga tänu sellele sain põhjalikumalt kitli lõikele keskenduda.
Kuldsed hambad pärinevad aga vesti lukult, mis vajas lühemaks tegemist. Pildil olevale vestile õmblesin mõned taskud ja töötlesin voodriga, hiljem õmblesin sarnase teisest kangast, kuid sellest ei jõudnud enam pildile püüda. Üldse sai kahetsusväärselt vähe pilte..


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Wednesday, February 25

Dragonfly embroidery

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I was so happy when a dear friend of mine asked me to embroider on a dress she was making for her friend (she also came up with the dragonflies) for the Estonian Independence Day reception. I love embroidering and don’t mind getting paid for it as well (:
I’d have to say that the most time-consuming part of this embroidery was to transfer the picture of the dragonflies onto the dress as it was going to be made from dark blue wool crêpe.
I have embroidered on a dark fabric before (coffee cozy II) but these dragonflies needed to be detailed, look and be positioned the same on both shoulders. After searching for different techniques I decided to go with the most safe one (without having to wet the fabric or iron other materials on the fabric). I just traced the dragonflies on the dress with bright coloured threads and removed them afterwards.

Olin nii rõõmus kui sõbranna palus mul tikkida pärlitest tikand kleidile, mille ta pidi Eesti Vabariigi iseseisvuspäeva vastuvõtule minevale sõbrannale õmblema. Tikkimine on mu salapahe, mis viga kui selle eest ka tasutakse (:
Kõige ajamahukamaks osutus tikandi kandmine tumesinisele villakrepile. Peale pikalt erinevate tehnikatega tutvumist, otsustasin minna kõige turvalisemat teed ja kanda joonis värviliste niitidega otse kangale. Oleks saanud ka kiiremini, kuid sel juhul oleksin pidanud mingil etapil kanga märjaks tegema, midagi kangale triikima või ostma mõne (kalli ja suure) seadeldise.

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Tiiu Parbus ja Tõnis Saadoja photo by Liis Treimannphoto by Liis Treimann

Saturday, January 24

Pattern Magic vol.3 Hugger

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I decided to call it “Hugger” because when I put it on a hanger it looks like it is ready to give you a massive hug. The pattern is constructed with the help of a book named Pattern Magic 3. For the fabric I chose sewn through wadding with a bit of wool. It’s very warm and used for outerwear but leaves small flakes everywhere so you can follow it like they do in fairytales..
I think I may use this pattern to make a wind jacket with a zipper in the front and maybe a hood, we’ll see.

“Kallistajaks” ristisin selle vammuse peale seda, kui ta pärast riidepuule riputamist varrukad kaissu kutsuvalt ettepoole seisma jäi. Päris mitu korda käisin seal varrukatevahel seismas.. Lõike konstrueerisin raamatu Pattern Magic 3 abil. Esialgu tahtsin materjalina kasutada kahepoolset vatiini, aga kuna valik oli nigel, otsustasin tavaliselt ülerõivaste vahematerjalina kasutatava sooja ja õudsalt pudeneva kanga kasuks. Nüüd võib mind valgeid ebemeid jälitades üles leida..
Võimalik, et kasutan seda lõiget, et õmmelda üks kapuutsiga ja eest lukuga avatav tuulejakk, eks näis.

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Friday, January 9

Winter dress / Talve kleit

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I was inspired by this Alice + Olivia’s white tweed minidress. Well, inspired to say the least as I ended up copying it with minor adjustments - I dropped the collar, made the skirt part a bit more a-line (maybe not a great move) and not that mini. I used a cream white wool fabric in twill weave witch is usually more durable and drapes well. The lining is made from viscose. After all it is a winter dress.
(I apologize for the scared face on the photos, I was a bit cold)

Märkasin seda valgest tviidist Alice + Olivia minikleiti ühes internetipoes ja ausalt öeldes viksisin selle maha, küll väikeste muudatustega. Kaotasin ära püstkrae ja seelikuosa muutsin pisut a-lõikelisemaks (ilmselt mitte kõige parem otsus) ja pikemaks. Kangaks valisin tasapindse toimse sidusega kreemja villase,  mis oma kudumise tõttu on üldiselt väga tugev ja kandmisele vastupidav, ka keskmise lõngakvaliteedi korral ning hästi langev. Vooder on viskoosist nagu ikka.
(Vabandan oma ehmatanud näo pärast järgnevatel fotodel, mul oli pisut külm)

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Saturday, January 3

Happy new year!

Ilusat uut aastat!

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For this year I will set some sewing goals, just to motivate myself and keep me in some kind of a direction. I'll try out some new patterns, get acquainted with different fabrics and materials that I haven't used before, learn some new sewing skills and  revise old ones.
Some of the new garments I would like to try and make this year are men's jacket, swimsuit, corset or something strapless, raglan sleeves, bardot neckline, a coat for myself, more draping. Also I’ll try to finish what has been started and maybe have no unfinished garments by the start of next year (a girl can dream..).

Sellel aastal võtan eesmärgiks katsetada uute lõigete ja sõlmida tutvusi (enese jaoks) võõraste materjalidega, õppida uusi õmblustehnikaid ja kinnistada kõike vana.
Uute projektide hulka kuuluvad näiteks raglaan varrukas, meeste pintsak, mantel/jakk, teksad, korsett/"bustier", ööriided, ujumisriided ja ka üks bardot kaelakaareg kleit. Konkreetsemalt tuleks lõpetada mõned pooleli olevad esemed, näiteks on valmimisjärgus üks trikoo, paar ööriiete komplekti, mis kindlasti peaksid sellel aastal selga saama.

And these books have to be at least read by the end of the year! And maybe some new ones bought..

Ja need raamatud tuleks esialgu vähemasti läbi lugeda! Ja ehk mõned uuedki osta..

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